It’s next to impossible to go wrong when opening a pizzeria if the flour for the dough comes from Torino, the tomatoes from San Marzano sul Sarno, the Parmigiano Reggiano from Emilia-Romagna and the olive oil from Sicily — covering both northern and southern regions to source the best produce Italy has to offer. Top it off with an imported Italian pizza oven, a third-generation Neapolitan chef and an entrepreneur conversing in fluent Italian and you have Zafirelli’s Italian — the newly opened pizzeria in Blue Area, Islamabad.

Owned by Nicole and Zaafir Waheed, Zafirelli’s Italian shares a border with the couple’s first venture on the Islamabad food scene — Loafology Bakery & Cafe. As soon as you step inside, you’re hit by a warm, cosy and homely aesthetic rather than the vibe of an informal, unpretentious Italian joint.

The counter, with its deep-blue pillowed tufted cladding, adds a personal touch. Above, heavy wooden beams complement the contrasting industrial perforated ceiling tiles, while track lighting adds a softer — more upscale — vibe to the whole scene.

The one-page menu boasts three starters, eight to nine different kinds of pizza and three pasta offerings. Our little gathering was hungry and the menu was mouthwatering, so without wasting even a second we were ready to order.

We got the Burrata with Oven-Fired Bread from the starters; Margherita, Double Pepperoni & Hot Honey and Tandoori Prawn from the pizza section; and Cacio e Pepe and Aglio Olio from the pasta area were unanimously shortlisted. On the recommendation of the celebrity chef Salvatore De Rinaldi — who didn’t want us to miss one of his favourites — we later added the Potato and Truffle pizza.

It was a treat to watch the maestro at work making the Burrata starter as he levelled the dough ball with his hands, shoved it in the oven and dished it out onto the marble top. He then placed the whole Burrata ball in the centre of the piping-hot dough base and cut it open with scissors. A thick lava of melted cheese oozed out, finding its way across the base. A drizzle of olive oil, freshly plucked basil leaves, a handful of sliced tomatoes and a garnishing of black pepper rounded it all off.

The creaminess of the Burrata, however, took centre stage against the hot, smoky, tangy, acidic tomato sauce, making it altogether a lethal combination.

As our Margherita pizza arrived, chef Rinaldi asked us if we were interested in knowing the history of the Margherita. Our answer was, of course, yes. “It was in the 18th century that Queen Margherita of Savoy, the first queen of a united Italy, often visited Naples, where she learned of a pizza that served as the staple diet of the city’s poor people. Then, during one of her visits, she ordered her staff to bring her the best pizza in the city. She was served one with tomato, mozzarella and basil — representing the red, white and green of the Italian flag — at the Real Bosco di Capodimonte, a royal palace located in the botanical gardens in Naples. There’s now a pizzeria called Giardino Torre in the same botanical gardens where I am working as a consultant,” Rinaldi said.

The classic Margherita was as simple as it was scrumptious: San Marzano sul Sarno tomatoes, homemade mozzarella, fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil, featuring the colours of the Italian flag as Her Majesty had liked.

If there was one thing I could have as my last meal, it would be the tomato sauce on this pizza. It’s not a meal, per se, I know, but it was that good. It was also a nice reminder of how eating vegetables the right way can feel like a treat. With no added sugar and no artificial flavouring, the vibrant tomatoes dominated the palate like no other. The whole wheat crust wasn’t crispy but rather puffy — featuring classic charred spots — making it easy for us to fold and eat it without using any utensils.

“Usually, customers focus on the toppings when ordering a pizza, whereas I believe that the base — which is like a foundation — is more important. If the foundation isn’t right, no matter what goes on top, it will not be perfect. Islamabad is a great place to launch something new. The customers are well travelled; the diplomats and expatriate communities too are always enthusiastic to try something different and I believe there is room to do a bit of gastronomic juggling,” said Zaafir, a diehard lover of Italian cuisine.

When it came to the Potato and Truffle pizza, I was a little hesitant, due to its name, but had to surrender on the chef’s insistence.

The roasted potatoes, cut into tiny crispy chunks and seasoned to perfection, paired shockingly well with the premium truffle-flavoured potato purée on the base. The combination had earthy undertones. Meanwhile, the truffle sauce and truffle oil overpowered the presence of buffalo mozzarella. Just one slice was quite filling.

Then it was time to try the desi-style Tandoori Prawn pizza. The moment it was laid on the table, it was picture-perfect to begin with. It had a buttery zucchini base, tangy mango chutney on top and spicy charcoaled prawns spread across the surface. It was the complete package.

“I make very good pasta, as I learnt it during my time in Rome from an Italian driver working at our house!” Zaafir said as our Aglio Olio and Cacio e Pepe arrived.

After being bombarded with such deep and rich flavours, the clean and simple Aglio Olio served as the perfect palate cleanser. It was made with fresh handmade pasta and a light drizzle of Sicilian olive oil and chilli flake sauce. This is perfect for those who want a filling pasta meal without the extra calories.

The same, however, couldn’t be said about the Cacio e Pepe as it was creamy and cheese-heavy — with freshly cracked black pepper being the star ingredient.

Zafirelli’s Italian is moderately priced, with pizzas ranging from Rs1,800 to Rs3,000 or more. The pastas can cost anywhere between Rs2,000 and Rs2,500. The eatery’s lunchtime starts at noon, and they call it a night at 11pm.

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